Sunday, August 30, 2009

From Grasse to Cologne

In France, the profession of perfumer & glove-maker emerged, whose center quickly became the city of Grasse in the south of the country – the capital of fragrant plant cultivation and leather-making. Brought to the French court by Catherine de Medici in the 16th century, perfume remained a royal fashion and was used all the more extravagantly. It was believed that water had the power to extract the life force from the body, and hygiene was exchanged for fragrance – the very first deodorant.

The situation was different in England under Oliver Cromwell – “Perfume is the work of the devil”, it was said, and was banned and even prohibited for an entire century.

The seventeenth century brought with it “Eau de Cologne” – “Cologne Water” – whose “recipe” had been brought to Germany by a young Italian named Farina. This refreshing blend of citrus oils, rosemary and alcohol went on to spread
throughout Europe – however not just as a fragrance, but also as a cure-all for both external and internal use. It would be left to Napoleon to finally clear up the situation – under his reign, a legal distinction was made between the professions of a “Perfumer” and a “Pharmacist.”

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