Tuesday, September 1, 2009

The fragrance circle

Just as we learn to give names to colors as children, we can also assign names to the various olfactory impressions. This produces an olfactory language with an extensive vocabulary that can also be scientifically underpinned. As described above, molecules with differing structures only fit on their intended receptors, thus
evoking a wide variety of stimuli. Molecules with similar structures can be combined into olfactory families, as shown in the Fragrance Circle. The fragrance families that are of importance in perfumery are grouped within the circle, while highly specific and unpleasant odors are located outside it. Smokey warns against fire, sour
against spoiled foods. As we near the center of the circle, the fragrance notes become more complex and are apparently perceived as being increasingly harmonious.

 Top note
Serves as the first impression of a fragrance, is intended to arouse curiosity and vanishes quickly. The families positioned in the upper third of the circle are employed in composing the top note.

 Heart note
Forms the actual fragrance character of the perfume and lasts for hours. It usually consists of floral notes that can be accentuated with the adjacent families.

 Base note:
Serves as the foundation upon which the perfume is based, is intended to pleasantly underscore the fading scent, and can last up to a day. It is composed from the fragrance families positioned in the lower third of the circle.

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